Ars-en-Ré on Ile-de-Ré (France): Village life on the Atlantic

Ars-en-Ré is a quaint village located on far end of the Ile de Ré. Connected to the mainland by a 2 mile bridge, Ars-en-Ré stands out for its historical charm, making it a lovely base for exploring the island.

Located in the Charente-Maritime department of France, it epitomizes the charm of the Atlantic coastline.

Known for its iconic St. Etienne church steeple, and maritime heritage, this little village is one of the most visited spots on the island.

History

Ile-de-Ré dates back to the Roman era, when it was was an archipelago consisting of three small islands. As the islands gradually filled in to form one island, it became part of the trading route with the British Isles.

The island became English in 1154, when Eleanor of Aquitaine became Queen of England after marrying King Henry Plantagenet. The island reverted to France in 1243, when Henry III of England returned it to Louis IX through a treaty. In 1360, however, with the Treaty of Brétigny, Île de Ré briefly became English again, until the 1370s.

In 1988, the toll bridge Pont de Ré was build to connect the island to the mainland. With the bridge in place, Ars-en-Ré has transitioned from a working fishing port to a popular tourist destination with many people having holiday homes on the island.

Things to do

Church of Saint-Etienne 

Ars-en-Ré is famous for the steeple of Saint-Étienne Church, historically acting as a beacon for sailors navigating the waters.

You can climb the tower of the iconic Saint-Étienne Church for sweeping panoramic views of the village, salt marshes, and the Atlantic ocean beyond.

Village center

With its whitewashed houses with green shutters and vibrant hollyhocks lining the streets, Ars-en-Ré is ranked as one of les plus beaux villages de France” (most beautiful villages of France).

There are plenty of shops and restaurants around and its open-air market is a feast for the senses.

Held in the village square, the market offers fresh produce, local cheeses, seafood, artisan goods, and, of course, the island’s famous salt.

Local specialties

The area is famous for its seafood, with a deep tradition of fishing. Oysters, in particular, are a highlight. Try a platter of freshly shucked oysters served with lemon or a mignonette sauce for a quintessential experience.

Another favourite is moules frite, a dish of mussels cooked in a broth or cream sauce, and served with Frech fries.

Ile de Ré is also famous for its salt production, and its fleur de sel is a staple in French kitchens. Take home a bottle of fleur de sel as a souvenir.

The area is also is known for various digestifs such as Cognac and Armagnac which are types of brandies. In addition, try a Pineau des Charentes, a fortified wine made by blending grape juice with cognac and aged for years.

Nouvelle-Aquitaine is also home to the Bordeaux wine region, with plenty of locals wines available to indulge in.

Harbour

The harbor today is vacationer’s hub for leisure boats, sailing and kayaking.

For those seeking relaxation, nearby beaches provide the perfect place for sunbathing or a refreshing swim.

How to get to Ars-en-Ré?

Ars-en-Ré on the Île de Ré is about 315 miles (505 km) from Paris. The fastest way to get there is by taking a train from Paris Montparnasse station to La Rochelle, with the journey taking around 2h30 on a high-speed TGV.

The nearest airport is on the mainland in La Rochelle, offering flights to major cities across Europe, making it easy to reach Ars-en-Ré from various destinations.

From La Rochelle, you will need a car to get to Ars-en-Ré, although there are buses and boats that head over to Ile de Ré as well. Once on Ile de Ré, it is relatively easy to bike all over the island, with plenty of bike rental shops around.

How many days should you spend?

You can probably visit the main sights of Ars-en-Ré during a day, with enough time left over for lunch and to head to a beach. But there is plenty to do in the area, so don’t hesitate to spend a few days on the island.

When is the best time to visit?

Ars-en-Ré hosts several charming local festivals such as the Fête de la Saint-Jean, held in June, featuring traditional music, dancing, and bonfires, marking the arrival of summer.

In August, the Fête du Port brings the harbor to life with food stalls and live entertainment, and festive activities. There are also island-wide events, such as the Fête du Sel in September, honoring Île de Ré’s famous salt production.

Where should you stay?

There are some great hotels around Ile-de-Ré including:

• €€€ – Hôtel Restaurant Le Grand Large (Rivedoux-Plage)
• €€€€ – Atalante Relais Thalasso & Spa – Wellness Hôtel (in Saint-Marie-de-Ré)
• €€€€€ – HR Hôtel-Restaurant & Spa Marin (in La Flotte)

If you prefer to stay on the mainland, here are some recommended hotels in La Rochelle:

• €€€ – Greet Hotel La Rochelle Centre
• €€€€ – Maisons du Monde Hôtel & Suites
• €€€€€ – Maison des Ambassadeurs