Château des Milandes: Inside Josephine Baker’s dream castle

Tucked away in the picturesque Dordogne region of southwestern France, the Château des Milandes stands as a testament to one woman’s history, glamour, and the quest for human rights.

The castle is in the heart of Nouvelle Aquitaine in France, in the outskirts of the “most beautiful village” Castelnaud-la-chapelle. This is an area surrounded by stunning villages and medieval fortresses that were involved in Hundred Years’ war.

But Château des Milandes is not your average medieval castle. Rather, it is most famous for being the home of American-French icon Josephine Baker. It is here that she raised her adopted “Rainbow tribe” and the house that she refused to move from when the authorities tried to take it away from her.

So let’s explore the history of the Château des Milandes and see what there is to see inside, shall we? Allons-y!

History

Constructed in the 15th century, the Château des Milandes is strategically positioned overlooking the Dordogne River. It served as the residence of the Lords of Caumont, a noble family from the area

Unlike the older Château de Castelnaud and Château de Beynac, the Chateau des Milandes was constructed after the Hundred Years’ war. As such, Milandes was not a castle built for protection, but rather as a home with large windows meant to bring in the light.

In the subsequent centuries, the château underwent several renovations and modifications, each leaving its imprint on the architectural landscape.

American-born Josephine Baker first rented the castle in 1937 before purchasing it outright. A naturalized French citizen, Baker was a star singer and dancer, who has now become one of the most famous women in France.

In addition to being a legendary performer, she was also part of the French resistance during WWII, acting as a spy. She spent a portion of the war here at Milandes, hiding people and delivering visas to people trying the escape the German Reich.

Baker however had significant financial problems. In 1968, a sale at auction of the castle was concluded. The castle had been sold for a tenth of its value. Baker tried to stage a sit-in in the kitchen to keep her home, but to no avail.

The Château des Milandes then went to several sets of private owners. It is still privately held, although it has the French government designation “Maisons des Illustres”.

Inside Château des Milandes

Inside the Château des Milandes, most of the rooms are dedicated to the life of Josephine Baker.

The opulent rooms are adorned with Baker’s personal memorabilia, costumes, and an impressive array of awards. These were all acquired at auction and other sales in order to put together a collection dedicated to Baker.

After the war, Josephine spent quite a bit of time here, in between advocating humanism and civil rights in both the U.S. and France.

She adopted her “rainbow family” of children from across the world, and inside Milandes you can see their bedrooms all kept in nearly original condition

The castle’s interior reflects her vivacious personality and artistic flair, including some rather interesting bathrooms. You can also see the living areas and the kitchen where Baker tried in vain to stage her sit-in.

You can also explore the gardens which have a cafe and church that are open to visitors. Indeed, it is the church tour (via ipad) that explores the medieval history of the area.

How to get to Château des Milandes?

Château des Milandes is about 330 miles (535 km) from Paris and is about 125 miles (200 km) from Toulouse and Bordeaux. The only way to get to Château des Milandes is by car or bus.

If you are driving down from Paris, the closest big city along the way is Limoges, which is about 95 miles (160km) away. If you don’t wish to drive, there are organized tours leaving from Sarlat-la-Canéda that will take you around the sights around the Dordogne river.

How easy is it getting around?

The Château des Milandes is a historical monument, so it has not been readapted to modern accessibility standards. Strollers and wheelchairs will find it difficult to manoeuvre around the narrow staircases, etc.

You will need a car to get from the Château des Milandes to the nearby Château de Castelnaud which is about 4 miles away.

How much time should you spend?

About half day is enough in Château des Milandes, but you may want to stay longer to explore the surrounding countryside.

When is the best time to visit?

Château des Milandes is a popular and lively attraction in the tourist season, with the fame of Josephine Baker attracting a lot of people.

You may want make it your base as you explore the nearby towns of Sarlat-la-Canéda, Beynac-et-Cazenac, Rocamadour, La Roque-Gageac, Domme, Carlux, etc. There are also some incredible cave complexes nearby like Lascaux caves and Gouffre du Padirac,

In the last two weeks of April, the Château des Milandes takes part in the Château en Fête celebrations in the Dordogne, where several châteaux open their doors to visitors with various animations and medieval shows.

Where should you stay?

There are no hotels in neighboring Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, but there are a couple of great hotels in towns nearby (within 5 miles):

• €€€ – Les Chenes Rouges
• €€€ – La Tour de Cause

You can also choose to stay in a bigger town like Sarlat-la-Canéda:

• €€€ – Hôtel Montaigne
• €€€€ – Plaza Madeleine & Spa
• €€€€ – La Villa des Consuls