Beynac-et-Cazenac village: In the footsteps of Richard the Lionheart in Aquitaine

With its castle paying tribute to Eleanor of Aquitaine and her son Richard, the village of Beynac-et-Cazenac buzzes with history of centuries past.
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The town of Beynac-et-Cazenac is famous for two things: its connection to English King Richard the Lionheart and its status as one of the ‘plus beaux village de France‘ (meaning ‘most beautiful village in France’.

And with those two things, this small village in the Dordogne area of France finds itself attracting thousands of visitors a year. Located in the Perigord Noir in the Nouvelle Aquitaine region, this is an area with plenty of beautiful villages and things to do.

In the summer time, this is one of the most popular areas of France for French and European tourists who want to combine village life and nature adventures. (In the winter it tends to rain a lot.)

So with that, let’s have a look at the top things to see and do in Beynac-et-Cazenac, shall we? Allons-y!

History

The roots of Beynac-et-Cazenac date back to the 12th century, when the château was built by the first barons of Beynac. When Baron Adhémar de Beynac died in 1189 without any children the castle was inherited by Richard the Lionheart as the Duke of Aquitaine.

Located on the edge of Nouvelle Aquitaine, this was once the border of lands fought over between the French and English. The village is nestled on a hill overlooking the Dordogne river, standing as a testament to the medieval era and the Hundred Years’ war.

This is because English King Richard was also the Duke of Aquitaine, a duchy inherited from his mother Eleanor. (In addition, he was the Duke of adjoining Normandy, lands inherited from his great-great grandfather, William the Conqueror.)

Medieval woman's dress in Château de Beynac
Inside Château de Beynac

With the English Plantagenets owning such large swaths of land in what is now mainland France, they were not interested in paying allegiance to the French monarchs. Rather, they had their own claim to the throne of France.

With both the English and French fighting for power, Beynac-et-Cazenac played a pivotal role as a defensive stronghold during the the Hundred Years’ War.

The castle returned to the Beynac family and remained so even after the victory of the French during the Hundred Years’ war in 1453. In fact, the castle remained in the Beynac extended family until it was sold by a descendant in 1961.

The village continues to hold links to the château and today is classified as one of Les plus beaux villages de France (meaning “most beautiful villages of France”).

Things to do in Beynac-et-Cazenac

1. Château de Beynac

The imposing outer defenses of the Château de Beynac are a testatment to the medieval engineering marvels designed to thwart invaders.

The castle was owned by the English King Richard the Lionheart between 1189 and 1199. He inherited from the local landowner, Count of Beynac, who died without children. (The castle later returned to another member of the Beynac family.)

Château de Beynac walls
Château de Beynac walls

The Great Hall with its large dining table evokes the grandeur of medieval feasts and celebrations, offering a sensory journey into the past. There are several rooms showing what castle life was like, but probably the room that visitors will be most interested in is the bedroom of Richard the Lionheart.

Richard did not spend a lot of time here, but when he did, his bedroom was located near the top of the castle in a room that has been set up to show what it might look like.

Along with the nearby Château de Castelnaud, the castle now welcomes thousands of visitors every year to showcase the history of Richard, the English, and the Hundred Years’ war.

2. Clifftop village

The village of Beynac-et-Cazenac is quite residentian and filled with tiny streets and passageways. It is not the most accessible when it comes to strollers and wheelchairs, but it does offer beautiful views over the Dordogne valley.

small house on the village streets of Beynac-et-Cazenac

There are a couple of restaurants and cafés in the village, that I should note, do fill up fast at lunchtime in the summer tourist season.

3. Boating on the Dordogne river

One of the most popular activities in the area is boating along the Dordogne river. The river is quite calm, and individual kayaks and canoes can be rented during good weather to go boating for an hour or two.

Dordogne river, view from the château de beynac

If you don’t feel like doing all the work, you can buy tickets on the large local gabere boats which carry tourists up and down the Dordogne

The Gabares used to transport goods along the Dordogne, especially Bordeaux wine from the vineyards which run along the length of the Dordogne.

4. Local specialties

The Périgord and Dordogne departments of Nouvelle Aquitaine around Beynac-et-Cazenac is famous for its truffles. (Note, Beynac-et-Cazenac does not have a weekly outdoor market, but there are several towns nearby who do.)

risotto with black truffles
Risotto with black truffles

Over 8-9 tonnes of black truffle produced there every year. With an emphasis on freshness, terroir, and authenticity, they called black diamonds.

Other local specialties in this part of Nouvelle Aquitaine is foie gras which is made from goose liver. If you enjoy the delicacy, head to the town of Sarlat-la-Canéda which is just a few miles away in the first weekend of March when a celebration of foie gras is held. 

5. The Marqueyssac gardens

About 3 miles (5km) away from Beynac-et-Cazenac is the Jardin du Marqueyssac. The Marqueyssac Gardens are famous for their meticulously designed topiaries in geometrical rounds and ovals, carefully trimmed to an inch.

Maze at Marqueyssac gardens

The topiaries are juxtaposed with a wild forest like area, amelding horticulture and nature is quite the symphony.

In addition to the topiaries and the belvedere, Marqueyssac Gardens boast a wealth of nooks and crannies to explore. The garden paths wind through a variety of landscapes from small water features to treehouses, and playgrounds to woodlands.

It is a favorite with kids and nature-lovers, and the gardens are quite packed on sunny days all year round. You can read more about the Marqueyssac gardens here.

How to get to Beynac-et-Cazenac?

Beynac-et-Cazenac is about 330 miles (535 km) from Paris and is about 125 miles (200 km) from Toulouse and Bordeaux. The only way to get to Beynac-et-Cazenac is by car or bus.

If you are driving down from Paris, the closest big city along the way is Limoges, which is about 95 miles (160km) away. If you don’t wish to drive, there are organized tours leaving from Sarlat-la-Canéda that will take you around the sights around the Dordogne river.

How easy is it getting around?

Beynac-et-Cazenac is relatively hilly so it is not as easy to get around in a wheelchair or stroller. It is not pedestrianized however, so you can get around the narrow streets by car (assuming your car is quite small and not an SUV!)

How many days should you spend?

About a day is enough in Beynac-et-Cazenac village center and visiting the castle, but you may want to stay longer to explore the surrounding countryside.

When is the best time to visit?

Beynac-et-Cazenac is a very popular and lively town in the tourist season. You may want make it your base as you explore the nearby towns of Sarlat-la-Canéda, Castelnaud-la-chapelle, Rocamadour, Lascaux caves, Gouffre du Padirac, La Roque-Gageac, Domme, Carlux, etc.

In the last two weeks of April, the Château de Beynac takes part in the Château en Fête celebrations in the Dordogne, where several châteaux open their doors to visitors with various animations and medieval shows. It is a very popular festival and a must if you are interested in medieval life in France.

Where should you stay?

There are not a lot of choices for accommodation in the Beynac town center, but here are some recommended hotels:

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If you enjoyed that article, you may like to read more about traveling around Nouvelle Aquitaine. A bientôt!

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