Ile-de-Ré: the Holiday island in western France

Celebrated by holidaymakers, Ile-de-Ré lies in the Charente-Maritime department and is part of an archipelago of small islands. Known for its pastel green shutters, it is instantly recognizable among French locals.

Part of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, the island is connected to the mainland city of La Rochelle by a 3-kilometer toll bridge. Other nearby attractions include the islands of Oléron and Aix, as well famous Fort Boyard.

History

Ile de Ré dates back to the Roman era, when it was was an archipelago consisting of three small islands. As the islands gradually filled in to form one island, it became part of the trading route with the British Isles.

The island became English in 1154, when Eleanor of Aquitaine became Queen of England after marrying King Henry Plantagenet. The island reverted to France in 1243, when Henry III of England returned it to Louis IX through a treaty. In 1360, however, with the Treaty of Brétigny, Île de Ré briefly became English again, until the 1370s.

In 1988, the toll bridge Pont de Ré was build to connect the island to the mainland. With the bridge in place, Ile-de-Ré has transitioned from a working fishing port to a popular tourist destination with many people having holiday homes on the island.

Things to do

Saint-Martin de Ré church and bell tower

Known for its fortified walls, bustling harbor, and laid-back elegance, Saint-Martin de Ré is ranked as one of les plus beaux villages de France” (most beautiful villages of France).

One of the main landmarks in the village is the Church of Saint-Martin. It is a 14th century Gothic fortified church, with one portion standing in ruins.

While the current building is in good shape, you can climb the tower to get a view of the older building next door which stands in ruins, as well views of the entire island.

Phare des Baleines

The Phare des Baleines, or “Lighthouse of the Whales,” is one of Ile de Ré’s most iconic landmarks. Standing at 57 meters tall, the tower has guided sailors since its construction in the 19th century.

Visitors can climb its 257 steps for a breathtaking panoramic view. And at the base of the lighthouse, a museum looks into the history of maritime navigation and the role of lighthouses along France’s coastline.

Surrounding the lighthouse, visitors can explore the scenic coastal area, which includes the Plage de la Conche des Baleines, a beautiful beach perfect for relaxation and water activities.

Beaches

Ile de Ré boasts some of the best beaches in France, including Plage de la Conche des Baleines, known for its golden sands and shallow waters, perfect for families.

Rent a bike and explore the island’s dedicated cycling paths that wind through the various beaches and and villages.

Salt marches

Ile de Ré is famous for its salt production, and its fleur de sel is a staple in French kitchens. Take home a bottle of fleur de sel as a souvenir.

La Flotte

La Flotte’s medieval-style market is one of the oldest on the island and offers local produce, fresh seafood, artisanal goods, and other treasures. The market is held daily during peak season in the center of town.

You can also visit the historic Abbaye des Châteliers, Cistercian monastery whose ruins are next to La Flotte.

Visit the Fort La Prée, an old fort that remains a symbol of the fortification of the island during the many conflicts between England and France.

Ars-en-Ré

Known for its enchanting narrow streets and iconic St. Etienne church steeple, Ars-en-Ré is one of the most visited spots on the island.

The steeple historically acted as a beacon for sailors navigating the waters. You can climb the tower of the iconic Saint-Étienne Church for sweeping panoramic views of the village, salt marshes, and the ocean beyond.

Local Specialties

The area is famous for its seafood, with a deep tradition of fishing. Oysters, in particular, are a highlight. Try a platter of freshly shucked oysters served with lemon or a mignonette sauce for a quintessential experience.

Another favourite is moules frite, a dish of mussels cooked in a broth or cream sauce, and served with Frech fries.

The area is also is known for various digestifs such as Cognac and Armagnac which are types of brandies. In addition, try a Pineau des Charentes, a fortified wine made by blending grape juice with cognac and aged for years.

Nouvelle-Aquitaine is also home to the Bordeaux wine region, with plenty of locals wines available to indulge in.

How to get to Île-de-Ré?

Île de Ré is about 315 miles (505 km) from Paris. The fastest way to get there is by taking a train from Paris Montparnasse station to La Rochelle, with the journey taking around 2h30 on a high-speed TGV.

The nearest airport is on the mainland in La Rochelle, offering flights to major cities across Europe, making it easy to reach Île de Ré from various destinations.

From La Rochelle, you will need a car to get to Île de Ré, although there are buses and boats that head over to the island as well. Once on Ile de Ré, it is relatively easy to bike all over the island, with plenty of bike rental shops around.

How many days should you spend?

You can probably visit the main sights of Île de Ré during over 2 days, with enough time left over for lunch and to head to a beach. But there is plenty to do in the area, so don’t hesitate to spend a few days on the island.

When is the best time to visit?

There are a variety of events in Île de Ré, over the year such as the Fête du Sel in September, honoring Île de Ré’s famous salt production.

There is also Fête de la Saint-Jean held in June in Ars-en-Ré, featuring traditional music, dancing, and bonfires, marking the arrival of summer.

The town of Saint-Martin-de-Ré on Ile de Ré hosts the Fête de la Mer in August showcasing maritime traditions with boat parades and seafood tastings.

The island comes alive with its Christmas Market in December transforming the its harbor with festive lights, local crafts, and seasonal delicacies.

Where should you stay?

There are some great hotels around Ile-de-Ré including:

• €€€ – Hôtel Restaurant Le Grand Large (Rivedoux-Plage)
• €€€€ – Atalante Relais Thalasso & Spa – Wellness Hôtel (in Saint-Marie-de-Ré)
• €€€€€ – HR Hôtel-Restaurant & Spa Marin (in La Flotte)

If you prefer to stay on the mainland, here are some recommended hotels in La Rochelle:

• €€€ – Greet Hotel La Rochelle Centre
• €€€€ – Maisons du Monde Hôtel & Suites
• €€€€€ – Maison des Ambassadeurs