La Rochelle: A maritime city in France

La Rochelle is one of those stunning coastal cities in western France that is also a treasure trove of history, culture, and seaside charm.

Located in the Charente-Maritime department of Nouvelle Aquitaine, it is known for its well-preserved medieval architecture and strong maritime heritage.

History

The history of La Rochelle dates back to antiquity, with the Romans then arriving and settling in the area with their salt fields. The name Rupella was first recorded in 961, from a Latin diminutive meaning ‘little rock’.

It was later known as Rocella and Roscella. By the 12th century, under the rule of the Eleanor and the Dukes of Aquitaine, it had grown into a thriving port, thanks to its strategic location on the Atlantic coast.

The Knights Templar had a strong presence in La Rochelle since before the time of Eleanor of Aquitaine, who exempted them from duties. La Rochelle was the Templars’ largest base on the Atlantic Ocean, and where they stationed their main fleet.

During the 13th and 14th centuries, La Rochelle became one of the coastline’s most important maritime hubs, going back and forth between the warring crowns of England and France during the Hundred Years’ War.

The 16th century marked a turning point for La Rochelle as it became a center for Protestantism and the Wars of Religion. The city embraced Calvinism during the Reformation, making it a stronghold of the Huguenots, the French Protestants.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, La Rochelle continued to thrive as a major port, particularly in connection with France’s colonial expansion. It became a key departure point for French settlers traveling to Canada, the Caribbean, and Louisiana.

The city’s economy flourished through trade, including the transatlantic slave trade, which contributed to its wealth during this period.

La Rochelle played a role in World War II when it was occupied by German forces and became a strategic submarine base. It was one of the last French cities to be liberated in May 8th, 1945.

Things to do

Vieux port

The Old Port (Vieux Port) is the heart of La Rochelle. Surrounded by historic towers and colorful boats, this is an ideal spot to soak in the maritime atmosphere.

The port has long been the center of trade and maritime activity in La Rochelle, with a history dating back to the Middle Ages.

Today, visitors can watch boats come and go, take a boat tour, or simply relax with a drink while enjoying street performances and the bustling vibe. The port is particularly beautiful at sunset.

Musée Le Bunker De La Rochelle

History enthusiasts will appreciate the Bunker Museum, which is housed in an actual wartime bunker.

Originally built in secrecy by German forces in 1941, the bunker was used to house officers overseeing U-boat operations in the Atlantic.

Today, the museum presents an immersive experience, with authentic wartime artefacts and interactive exhibits to bring this dramatic period of history to life.

Visitors can walk through the underground corridors and learn about the daily lives of those who lived and worked there during the war.

Medieval towers

The three iconic medieval towers—Tour Saint-Nicolas, Tour de la Chaîne, and Tour de la Lanterne—once guarded the entrance to the Old Port. Visitors can climb these towers for breathtaking panoramic views of the city and sea.

Each tower has its own unique history and architectural style. The Tour Saint-Nicolas, the largest, served as a fortress and residence for the city’s governor.

The Tour de la Chaîne, named after the massive chain that once blocked the harbor entrance, played a crucial role in regulating maritime traffic. The Tour de la Lanterne, the oldest lighthouse on the Atlantic coast, also served as a prison for centuries, with graffiti from captives still visible on its walls.

St. Louis Cathedral

This beautiful 18th-century cathedral features impressive baroque architecture, and stunning stained-glass windows.

It is dedicated to Saint King Louis, one of the main saints in France.

Aquarium

One of the largest private aquariums in Europe, La Rochelle Aquarium is home to over 12,000 marine creatures.

Next to the train station, it is a fun experience for all ages, featuring everything from jellyfish and sharks to exotic tropical fish.

Les Halles

Les Halles de La Rochelle is the city’s vibrant central market, housed in a historic 19th-century iron-and-glass structure built in 1835. This architectural gem, reminiscent of the grand Parisian markets, is a bustling hub for locals and visitors alike.

Inside, vendors offer an incredible selection of fresh seafood, regional cheeses, cured meats, seasonal fruits and vegetables, and baked goods.

Market days

The city hosts markets almost every day, with the largest ones happening on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Strolling through these markets is a great way to purchase fresh, local delicacies and perhaps take home a souvenir.

Local specialties

The area is famous for its seafood, with a deep tradition of fishing. Oysters, in particular, are a highlight. Try a platter of freshly shucked oysters served with lemon or a mignonette sauce for a quintessential experience.

Another favourite is moules frite, a dish of mussels cooked in a broth or cream sauce, and served with Frech fries.

Ile de Ré is also famous for its salt production, and its fleur de sel is a staple in French kitchens. Take home a bottle of fleur de sel as a souvenir.

The area is also is known for various digestifs such as Cognac and Armagnac which are types of brandies. In addition, try a Pineau des Charentes, a fortified wine made by blending grape juice with cognac and aged for years.

Nouvelle-Aquitaine is also home to the Bordeaux wine region, with plenty of locals wines available to indulge in.

Boat trip to Fort Boyard and Ile d’Aix

From La Rochelle, a boat excursion to Fort Boyard, the offshore fortress, is a must. It is the site of a famous French TV show (like “Survivor”) that has been running for decades.

Many tours also include a visit to Île d’Aix, a charming car-free island perfect for cycling and swimming. It is here that Napoleon Bonaparte spent his last days in France, before being exiled to St. Helena.

How to get to La Rochelle?

La Rochelle is about 290 miles (470 km) from Paris. The fastest way to get there is by train from Paris Montparnasse station, with the journey taking around 2h30 on a high-speed TGV.

The city of La Rochelle also has a small airport, La Rochelle-Île de Ré Airport, offering flights to major cities across Europe.

How easy is it getting around?

The city center of La Rochelle is quite flat and compact, making it quite easy to get around. Some of the older parts of the city have narrow sidewalks, but for the most part the city is quite accessible.

How many days should you spend?

There is a lot to see and do in the La Rochelle and the surrounding area, such as visiting Ile d’Aix and Ile de Ré, so I recommend spending at least 3 nights in the city.

When is the best time to visit?

La Rochelle has a variety of festivals in the summer such as Les Francofolies in July, a major music festival celebrating Francophone artists, and the La Rochelle International Film Festival.

In September, there is the Grand Pavois, one of Europe’s largest boat shows, and La Rochelle Jazz Festival in October, both of which have visitors flocking to the area.