Poitiers: a historic town in Nouvelle Aquitaine
Poitiers, the capital of the Vienne department in western France, boasts a rich history that spans over two millennia.
From its origins as a Celtic settlement to its medieval status as the birthplace of Eleanor of Aquitaine, Poitiers is a town that has always had a lot of attractions.
Where to stay
History
Poitiers traces its roots back to the Celtic tribe known as the Pictones, who called it Lemonum.
Under Roman rule, Lemonum evolved into a settlement known as Pictavium. Its advantageous position between the Clain and Boivre rivers made it important for defense and trade, laying the foundation for the town’s future significance.
By the 2nd century, Poitiers had become a center for early Christianity.
In 732, the Battle of Tours (sometimes also called the Battle of Poitiers) took place nearby, a major Christian turning point in European history. This is where Frankish leader Charles Martel halted the advance of Umayyad forces led by Abd al-Rahman al-Ghafiqi, governor of al-Andalus from expanding into Western Europe.
During the Middle Ages, Poitiers became the capital of the County of Poitou and Duchy of Aquitaine, governed a vast principality encompassing regions like Limoges, Angoulême, Périgueux, and Saintes.
The city flourished under its duchess, Eleanor of Aquitaine, one of the most influential figures of the 12th century. She married Henry II Plantagenet of England, uniting Aquitaine, Anjou, Normandy and Brittany under English rule.
This would eventually lead to the Hundred Years’ War, and the city witnessed the Battle of Poitiers, where King John II of France was captured by English forces.
Towards the end of the war French King Charles VII relocated his government to Poitiers from 1423 to 1436, as Paris was under English rule. During this period, in 1431, he established the University of Poitiers, enhancing the city’s intellectual and educational stature.
The 16th century introduced religious tensions with the rise of Protestantism. The Edict of Poitiers in 1577 sought to end the sixth Wars of Religion by granting concessions to Protestants.
In the 19th century, the city became the administrative center of the Vienne department and by 1931, Poitiers’ population had grown to approximately 40,000.
During World War II, the city was liberated from German occupation in September 1944. Today it remains a student town due to its famous university, with a total population of around 280,000 people.
Things to do
Notre-Dame-la-Grande church
A masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, Notre-Dame-la-Grande is renowned for its intricately sculpted façade depicting biblical scenes and figures.
The church’s origins date back to the 11th and 12th centuries, and inside you can see some beautifully preserved frescoes. During the summer months, the façade is illuminated in a spectacle known as “Les Polychromies,” recreating the church’s original painted appearance.
Saint Peter’s Cathedral
Constructed between the 12th and 14th centuries, Saint Peter’s Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Pierre) is the largest medieval monument in Poitiers.
The cathedral showcases a blend of Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles. It houses various 13th-century stained glass windows, including a remarkable crucifixion scene, and features a grand organ dating back to the 18th century.
Palace of the Counts of Poitou and Dukes of Aquitaine
This historic palace served as the seat of the Counts of Poitou and Dukes of Aquitaine during the Middle Ages.
Today, it houses the Poitiers various events in the magnificent “Salle des Pas Perdus,” a vast medieval hall that once hosted royal gatherings and judicial proceedings.
There is also an exhibition on Eleanor of Aquitaine and her Plantagenet descendants, showcasing the power of the English royal courts in the medieval era.
Holy Cross Museum
The Musée Sainte-Croix is the largest museum in Poitiers, with collections spanning prehistoric artifacts, Roman antiquities, medieval sculptures, and modern art.
Highlights include the Gallo-Roman relics of Lemonum and works by renowned artists like Camille Claudel and Auguste Rodin.
Saint-Hilaire church
Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand is a Romanesque church dedicated to Saint Hilary, the city’s patron saint.
Built in the 11th century, the church features striking sculpted capitals and a crypt with ancient relics.
Saint-Jean Baptistery
One of the oldest Christian buildings in France, the Baptistère Saint-Jean dates back to the 4th century.
It is a remarkable structure houses early medieval frescoes, a Merovingian-era baptismal pool, and an impressive collection of carved sarcophagi.
Market days
There are various markets held across Poitiers, but one of the biggest ones is the Marché de Notre Dame held in the city center on saturday mornings.
In addition, the Carmago market is held every Friday afternoon in Square de la République.
Local specialties
The area is famous for Chabichou du Poitou, a soft goat cheese made from full-fat goat’s milk. IT is recognizable by its small conical shape, known as “bonde,”.
Seafood also plays a pivotal role in the local cuisine. Nouvelle Aquitaine is renowned for its fresh oysters, langoustines, prawns, crabs, and mussels from nearby La Rochelle.
The region offers the world-renowned Cognac, a type of brandy that has been produced in the nearby city of Cognac for centuries. In addition, don’t forget to check out the nearby Bordeaux wine region.
When is the best time to visit Poitiers?
Poitiers hosts several notable festivals that attract visitors throughout the year. One such event is the Poitiers Film Festival, held annually in December.
Another prominent festival is Les Expressifs, typically held in October. Renowned as a major street circus festivals, there are open-air stages featuring performances by musicians, actors, and artists.