La Roque-Gageac: A beautiful cliffside village in Dordogne

Located along the banks of the Dordogne River, the enchanting village of La Roque-Gageac is like an open amphitheatre looking out onto blue skies and green hills. This is one town where you won’t find a bad view in sight.

In the heart of the Perigord Noir region of France, this is an area with plenty of medieval charm. Known as one of the “plus beaux village of France” (“most beautiful villages in France”), La Roque-Gageac is most famous for its fortress built directly into the cliffside.

And that is because like a village frozen in time, La Roque-Gageac still holds the vestiges of the Hundred Years’ war between the English and the French. So let’s explore the history of this charming village, and see what there is to see and do in the area, shall we? Allons-y!

History

The village and fortifications at La Roque Gageac date back at least over a 1000 years. While the village sprung up around the river Dordogne, fortifications were built in the cliffside above for the villagers to evacuate to in the time of war.

And this is because for many centuries, this was the frontier of the English-controlled Aquitaine and the French Kingdom. This was the frontier of the lands of Duchess Eleanor of Aquitaine.

When Eleanor married the King of England, her lands went with her, eventually inherited by her descendants, including her son King Richard the Lionheart.

The Château de Beynac owned by King Richard is only 3 miles away from as is another famous medieval castle Château de Castelnaud. As such, the surrounding area was conquered and reconquered several times during the Hundred Years’ war as successive English and French Kings fought for control.

In the middle ages, the village had as many as 1500 residents. Today it is classified as one of the “plus beaux villages de France”, attracting thousands of visitors every year.

Things to do

Fort de La Roque-Gageac

The Fort de La Roque-Gageac is an incredible troglodyte fortress, built into the limestone cliffs above the village.

It was built in the 12th century, with its strategic location reflecting the historical importance as a defensive stronghold during the tumultuous Hundred Years’ War.

Today a narrow set of metal stairs carries visitors to the top. Because limestone can degrade over time, much of the original fortress has since disappeared.

There have been several significant landslides in the area including in 1957 and January 2010. Works were undertaken to secure the fort and the village below, during which many of the walls were removed.

This is why today the fortress has large visible steel and concrete pillars and an open view into the valley below. While now stabilized and open to visitors, over the long term the cliffside fortress still faces climate change and constant rains.

Cliff-side village

The village of La Roque-Gageac is a consists of wonderfully scenic stone houses are built into the cliffside. The cliffside lined with narrow alley ways climbing to the top, (which I will note are not very accessible for strollers and wheelchairs).

There are several small shops and restaurants on the banks of the river which are accessible, however.

Boating on the Dordogne river

One of the most popular activities in the area is boating along the Dordogne river. The river is quite calm, and individual kayaks and canoes can be rented during good weather to go boating for an hour or two.

If you don’t feel like doing all the work, you can buy tickets on the large local gabere boats which carry tourists up and down the Dordogne

The Gabares used to transport goods along the Dordogne, especially Bordeaux wine from the vineyards which run along the length of the Dordogne.

Marqueyssac Gardens

About 3 miles (5km) away from La Roque-Gageac is the Jardin du Marqueyssac. The Marqueyssac Gardens are famous for their meticulously designed topiaries in geometrical rounds and ovals, carefully trimmed to an inch.

The topiaries are juxtaposed with a wild forest like area, amelding horticulture and nature is quite the symphony.

In addition to the topiaries and the belvedere, Marqueyssac Gardens boast a wealth of nooks and crannies to explore. The garden paths wind through a variety of landscapes from small water features to treehouses, and playgrounds to woodlands.

It is a favorite with kids and nature-lovers, and the gardens are quite packed on sunny days all year round. You can read more about the Marqueyssac gardens here.

Market days

La Roque-Gageac doesn’t have an outdoor market all year around, but it does usually hold one in the summertime, usually on friday mornings. The nearest market that is very famous in the area is in Sarlat-la-Canéda, a few miles away.

Subtropical Garden

La Roque-Gageac is home to a unique exotic garden that thrives in the village’s microclimate. With cliffs offering protection from the wind on one side and the river on the other, temperatures are slightly warmer than in the surrounding area.

The sub-tropical garden boasts a variety of tropical plants and flowers, including lemon trees, banana trees and many species of palm.

The sub-tropical gardens are located alongside the local church, standing as an unexpected oasis in the heart of the medieval village.

Local specialties

The Périgord and Dordogne departments of Nouvelle Aquitaine around La Roque-Gageac is famous for its truffles.

Over 8-9 tonnes of black truffle produced there every year. With an emphasis on freshness, terroir, and authenticity, they called black diamonds.

Other local specialties in this part of Nouvelle Aquitaine is foie gras which is made from goose liver. If you enjoy the delicacy, head to the town of Sarlat-la-Canéda which is just a few miles away in the first weekend of March when a celebration of foie gras is held. 

And of course, one of the most popular delicacies in the area is the chestnut. All around the countryside you will find chestnut trees growing in the area.

Notre-Dame de La Roque-Gageac Church

Notre-Dame de Roque-Gageac Church dates back to 1330AD and is certainly a Romanesque gem. The church’s sturdy stone facade is built into the cliffside and has a weathered elegance, that still beckons visitors to visit inside.

It isn’t the fanciest church around but its austere medieval design serves as a reminder of the enduring role that such places of worship play in small villages like La Roque-Gageac.

How to get to La Roque-Gageac?

La Roque-Gageac is about 340 miles (545 km) from Paris and is about 125 miles (200 km) from Toulouse and Bordeaux. The only way to get to La Roque-Gageac is by car or bus.

If you are driving down from Paris, the closest big city along the way is Limoges, which is about 100 miles (180km) away. If you don’t wish to drive, there are organized tours leaving from Sarlat-la-Canéda that will take you around the sights around the Dordogne river.

How easy is it getting around?

La Roque-Gageac is quite hilly as the town is built on the cliffside overlooking the Dordogne river. The base area is pretty easy to walk around, but strollers and wheelchairs will not be accessible up to the Fort.

How many days should you spend?

About a day is enough in La Roque-Gageac village center and fort, but you may want to stay longer to explore the surrounding countryside.

When is the best time to visit?

Roque-Gageac is a pretty quiet town that doesn’t get as busy as its more popular touristic neighbors.

As such, you can visit Roque-Gageac all year long, and even make it your base as you explore the nearby towns of Sarlat-la-Canéda, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, Beynac-et-Cazenac, Rocamadour, Domme, Carlux, etc. There are also some beautiful cave complexes nearby like Lascaux caves and Gouffre du Padirac,