Sarlat-la-Canéda: The medieval town in Dordogne

In the heart of the picturesque Dordogne region in southwestern France, there is one small town that will make you feel like you have stepped back in time.

With its protective stone walls, medieval architecture, and a charming ambiance, the excellently preserved Sarlat-la-Canéda offers a unique travel experience in this Perigord Noir region in rural France.

The town is classified as a “City of art and history”. It is also famous for having the highest density of classified or inscribed historical monuments in the world, and is part of the association “Les Plus Beaux Détours de France“, or “most beautiful travel detour of France”.

In essence, if you like to imagine yourself in a medieval village, this is the place to be. So let’s have a look at the history of Sarlat-la-Canéda, and the top things to see and do in the area, shall we? Allons-y!

History

The history of Sarlat-la-Canéda dates back to the 8th century, when an abbey was built in the area. This was one of the six great benedictine abbeys of Périgord (along with Paunat, Belvès, Saint-Front de Périgueux, Brantôme and Terrasson).

The village of Sarlat-la-Canéda flourished due to its strategic location on the Dordogne river along major trade routes. It was also one of the few in the area that was spared by the Vikings in the 9th century.

Later in the Middle ages, Sarlat-la-Canéda, with its medieval roots and profitable trade routes, was thought to have a connection to the Knights Templar, a medieval Christian military order.

However it was during the Hundred Years’ war that Sarlat really took on significance. And this is because for many centuries, this was the frontier of the English-controlled Aquitaine and the French Kingdom.

This was the frontier of the lands of Duchess Eleanor of Aquitaine. When Eleanor married the King of England, her lands went with her, eventually inherited by her descendants, including her son King Richard the Lionheart.

The Château de Beynac owned by King Richard is only 10 miles away from as is another famous medieval castle Château de Castelnaud. As such, the surrounding area was conquered and reconquered several times during the Hundred Years’ war as successive English and French Kings fought for control.

Sarlat was used as a reserve for men at arms, ammunition and food, bringing relief to other cities besieged by the English. The fortified village is also defended by the nearby castles of Beynac and Castelnaud when necessary.

Later in the 16th century, it suffered during La Fronde (the troubles) against the Sun King Louis XIV, when the village was besieged.

The town also played a vital part in France’s defense during World War II, with many resistance activities taking place in the area. The town is one of the few in the area that was awarded the Croix de Guerre.

Today, the town’s medieval walls and charming cobblestone streets have been carefully preserved, giving visitors a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Sarlat’s past.

Things to do

Cathedral of Saint-Sacerdos

One of the most impressive buildings in Sarlat-la-Canéda is the Cathedral of Saint-Sacerdos.

This is the site of the former abbey that laid the foundation for the village. The current church was built between the 14th-17th centuries in a stunning Gothic style boasting intricate carvings and impressive stained glass windows.

Visitors can explore the interior to admire the medieval architecture and gain insight into the religious history of the region.

Manoir de Gisson

For a glimpse into the lifestyle of the local nobility in the Middle ages and renaissance, a visit to the Manoir de Gisson is a must. This well-preserved manor house dates back to the 13th century.

Inside, the state rooms are furnished with the Haute Epoque furniture, the fireplaces, and a wonderful spiral staircase as it might have been with the noble Gisson family lived there.

You can also visit the subterranean level, where a collection of cabinet curiosities has been put on display.

The manor is generally open everyday, but does have close during Christmas and New Year.

Vieux Sarlat

The heart of Sarlat-la-Canéda is definitely its medieval town center, known as Vieux Sarlat. This area is a labyrinth of narrow streets, charming squares, and historic buildings, each telling a story of the village’s past.

Stroll through the market square, Place de la Liberté, where bustling markets showcase the region’s culinary delights, including truffles, foie gras, and local wines.

There are plenty of shops, cafes, and restaurants, which add a lot of charm when wandering around Vieux Sarlat.

Marché couvert du Sarlat (Church Sainte Marie)

In the center of the old town of Sarlat, is the rehabilited Church Sainte Marie. The church has been converted into a covered market, known as the Marché couvert du Sarlat.

The original church dates back to the 12th century. Over time it has undergone numerous modifications, partly destroyed to recover the stones, transformed into a bakery, a factory, and even a post office for a while, before being classified as a historical monument.

It was rehabilitated into a covered market by the architect Jean Nouvel in 2001.

The Périgord and Dordogne departments of Nouvelle Aquitaine around Sarlat-la-Canéda is famous for its truffles, and you will find plenty of varieties inside the market.

Other local specialties in this part of Nouvelle Aquitaine is foie gras which is made from goose liver. The market is open every morning until 1pm during the year, except on Thursdays when it is closed.

During summers, there may be extended hours on Fridays, until 8pm. If you do wish to go to the market, check opening hours before heading over.

Outdoor market days

Sarlat-la-Canéda is very famous for its outdoor markets as well, with people from nearby villages all flocking to the area. The most popular market is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays around Place de la Liberté.

In addition, between December and February, there is a truffle market held on Saturday mornings, as well as a marché du gras for foie gras.

Marqueyssac Gardens 

About 3 miles (5km) away from Sarlat-la-Canéda is the Jardin du Marqueyssac. The Marqueyssac Gardens are famous for their meticulously designed topiaries in geometrical rounds and ovals, carefully trimmed to an inch.

The topiaries are juxtaposed with a wild forest like area, amelding horticulture and nature is quite the symphony.

In addition to the topiaries and the belvedere, Marqueyssac Gardens boast a wealth of nooks and crannies to explore. The garden paths wind through a variety of landscapes from small water features to treehouses, and playgrounds to woodlands.

It is a favorite with kids and nature-lovers, and the gardens are quite packed on sunny days all year round. You can read more about the Marqueyssac gardens here.

Local specialties

The there are three main food specialties in the Sarlat area, truffles, foie gras, and chestnuts.

Over 8-9 tonnes of black truffle produced there every year. With an emphasis on freshness, terroir, and authenticity, they called black diamonds.

If you enjoy foie gras, you should plan your visit to Sarlat during the first weekend of March when a celebration of foie gras is held. 

And of course, one of the most popular delicacies in the area is the chestnut. All around the countryside you will find chestnut trees growing in the area.

There are also wonderful food tours that take you around Sarlat, to taste and indulge in the local delicacies.

How to get to Sarlat-la-Canéda?

Sarlat-la-Canéda is about 326 miles (525 km) from Paris and is about 125 miles (200 km) from Toulouse and Bordeaux. The fastest way to get to Sarlat is to drive, but it also has a train station connecting to the major cities around France.

If you are driving down from Paris, the closest big city along the way is Limoges, which is about 90 miles (150km) away.

How easy is it getting around?

The historical town center of Sarlat-la-Canéda is filled with ancient walls and buildings, and cobblestone streets. It is however quite flat. Much of the center is pedestrianized (or limited to local resident traffic), so a good pair of shoes is a must for walking.

How many days should you spend?

It is possible to visit Sarlat-la-Canéda as a day trip if you are staying somewhere in the Perigord Noir area, but as it is a rather lively town, I recommend staying overnight.

You can also make it your base as you explore the nearby towns of La Roque-Gageac, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, Beynac-et-Cazenac, Rocamadour, Domme, Carlux, etc. There are also some incredible cave complexes nearby like Lascaux caves and Gouffre du Padirac,

When is the best time to visit?

As one of the most beautiful historical towns in the area, Sarlat-le-Canéda attracts quite a lot of visitors all year around. It is slightly less busier in the winter months, so I recommend visiting in the off season, if you can.

Some festivals around Sarlat include:

• Fest’oie – the large festival of goose and fois gras around the start of March.
• Fête de la truffe – truffle festival in mid-January.
• Fête de la noix – walnut festival in mid-February.