If you are looking for a slice of real Parisian life, you will want to head over to the Canal D’Ourcq and Bassin de la Villette in the north of Paris. Located in the 19th arrondissement, the area was often considered off-limits by visitors. But no more. With a beautiful canal stretching for miles, as well as plenty of bobo-chic cafés, restaurants, and concert halls, the area has seen a massive flux of investment.
It was Napoleon Bonaparte in 1802 who ordered the construction of Canal de l’Ourcq along with its connecting Canal Saint Martin to supply Paris with fresh water and prevent disease. Construction was not completed until 1822, after Napoleon was already defeated.
Canal de l’Ourcq is around 67 miles (108 km) long (67.2 mi) long beginning at Port-aux-Perches near the village of Troesnes, far outside the city of Paris. Here it splits from the river Ourcq, and flows all the way to Paris and to the Bassin de la Villette, where it joins the Canal Saint-Martin.
It has 10 locks and is joined by the Canal Saint Denis which connects to it. The Canal de l’Ourcq was originally built at a width of 3.20m (10.5 ft) but was enlarged to 3.7m (12 ft) and was once a main artery for the flow of goods into Paris.
The Bassin de la Villette is an artificial lake that was completed in 1808. It was originally surrounded by warehouses, which have now been replaced by the Parc de la Villette, a large flat park where there is always something going on.
Every summer, this is the area for concerts, picnics, festivals, and river cruises, where locals come to spend an afternoon. In addition, the area is lined with tiny cafés, where you can easily spend a few hours here paddle-boating or playing pétanque.
1. Boat cruises
There are also several boats that cross the historic Canal de l’Ourcq in the other direction, exploring the River Ourcq and the canals outside Paris. In the summer time, there are also several festive boats playing music that travel along the Canal de l’Ourcq.
2. Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie is located in Parc de la Villette, and is one of the biggest science museums and planetariums in the world. It was opened in 1986 by former French president Giscard d’Estaing covers a rather large area.
There is a special section dedicated to children, Cité des Enfants, a Library of Science and Industry, a model submarine, planetarium, aquarium and much more more. Visitors should count at least 1/2 day to visit, if not more. You can buy skip-the-line entry tickets here.
3. Zenith Paris – La Villette
Located in the Parc de la Villette, the Zenith is one of the most famous concert halls in Paris. It holds around 7000 people, which may not seem like a lot, but it is one of the largest within Paris intra-muros.
Many a famous artist has played here, and it is used as an indoor arena for sports as well.
4. Philharmonie de Paris
While the more famous Opera Garnier and Opera Bastille in Bastille hold a lot of ballets and shows, the Paris Philharmonic also has its fair share of concerts. It is actually a complex of concert halls and rehearsal studios, and is larger than the Opera halls.
It also much newer, having opened in 2015 and holds around 2400 people. There are shows on regularly at both the Zenith and the Philharmonic so don’t hesitate to check their websites to get tickets.
5. Place Stalingrad
Around the point where the Canal d’Ourcq joins the Canal Saint Martin, is the Place Stalingrad.
It is named after the Battle of Stalingrad in 1943, when Russia and her Allies defeated the German Reich during WWII. It was one of the bloodiest battles in the history of warfare, and a turning point in the war to liberate France and western Europe.
Along with several cafés and restaurants in the area, there is also the famous MK2 movie theatre on each side of Canal de l’Ourcq. If you buy a movie ticket, you can ride the free ferry from one side of the quay to the other, a ride of about 5 minutes.
Restaurants and Cafés
There are a lot of different types of restaurants around the Canal de l’Ourcq and the Bassin de la Villette, but a few local favorites are:
- Cote Canal – On the Bassin de la Villette at 5 Quai de la Seine, 75019 Paris
- La Rotonde Stalingrad – Italian and Corsican fare at 8 Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad, 75019 Paris
- L’Atalante – bar and restaurant at 26 Quai de la Marne, 75019 Paris
You can find more ideas and ways of spending an evening in Paris here.
Bars and nightlife
There are several bars and brasseries that line Canal de l’Ourcq and the Bassin de la Villette. In addition, if you go early in the evening, you will also see a lot of locals having an apéro picnic along the quays of canal.
- BarOurcq – popular friendly bar for locals in the area at 68 Quai de la Loire, 75019 Paris
- Le Pavillon des Canaux – colorful café with terrasse at 39 Quai de la Loire, 75019 Paris
Where to stay: Hotels and other accommodation
While the 19th arrondissement is not the most central, there are several metro stations around the area that make it very convenient to get around.
Prices of hotels in the 19eme arrondissement are also slightly cheaper and the area around Parc Villette and Buttes Chaumont is very popular with hip locals. Some recommended hotels are:
If you enjoyed that article, you may want to read more about things to do in Paris. A bientôt!